Classic Salade Niçoise

The exact ingredients in a salade Niçoise (Nicoise salad) is sometimes up for debate, but no matter exactly how it looks, it's a delicious taste of summer. This largely classic version is packed with color and simple, delicious flavors. Perfect for a light meal.

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I've always been one to find a salad with only greens and not much more a little dull. However even just a couple extra ingredients, as in my chicken and bacon salad or a salade Lyonnaise can make a salad a meal, for me. 

This classic salad, with a few heartier ingredients like potatoes and egg is definitely one in that category, too. I say classic, but actually while it is well known, it must be one of the most disputed salads in terms of ingredients.

Where is this salad from?

Salade Niçoise simply translates as a salad from Nice. In the local Niçard dialect, it's called salada nissarda. Nice is a city on the French Riviera, part of the Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur region in France. It has long been a favorite place for tourists, artists and more.

The traditional cuisine in the area is very much dominated by ingredients that grow locally, like tomatoes, herbs and olives. Well known regional dishes include tapenade, ratatouille and breads like fougasse. As well as, of course, this salad.

What is in a traditional salade Niçoise?

You might think that's a simple question, but sadly not. While most agree on tomatoes and olives (or at least olive oil), quite honestly that's about it. The fish component that you may think defines the salad is even debated and not all include a base of greens, even.

While many think of potatoes and green beans as core ingredients, you will rarely find them if you are visiting Nice. Many consider them a modern addition, and incorrect by some. 

In fact, a somewhat controversial former mayor of Nice who also wrote a cookbook (Cuisine Niçoise), Jacques Médicin, was a bit of a traditionalist and wrote " Never, never, I beg you, include boiled potato or any other boiled vegetable in your salade Nicoise."

Yet a number of prominent French chefs over the last century or so have included them. Auguste Escoffier, a prominent chef who brought many French recipes and techniques to a broader audience, is often credited as the first - he described the salad as equal parts potatoes and green beans with tomatoes as a garnish. Given he grew up not far from Nice, he probably wasn't just guessing.

Also, potatoes and beans are listed in the ingredients in what's often considered the modern French food bible, Larousse Gastronomique. 

Despite all the debate, most will concede that the ingredients can vary anyway. Since it uses fresh, local ingredients, these can change with the season and availability. So even sticking with uncooked vegetables, sometimes that might be fava beans, other times shaved artichokes. 

In terms of fish, some say traditionally tuna would be the first choice, and anchovies only if it wasn't available or you couldn't afford it (this was originally a peasant dish after all). But many will include both in more modern recipes.

Tips for making this salad

Here I have gone with a version that's broadly what you might consider the accepted, modern version. Though as I say, that's always open to debate anyway. It has a tasty mix of flavors, textures and is hearty enough to consider a meal. Alternatively, divide it into smaller portions as a side or appetizer.

Traditionally, you use canned tuna, and much as I love fresh seared tuna, I have kept with canned as it feels a core part of the salad. Also, I included some anchovies for much the same reason. I added the anchovies to the dressing, though, rather than separately to help distribute their flavor. Plus, to me they are easier for potential non-fans to enjoy that way. 

Try to use French beans (haricots verts) if you can, as they are thinner and more tender. But if not available, regular green beans are fine.

Small, firm potatoes are best, eg Charlotte or little Yukon gold. You certainly don't want dry, floury potatoes for this but something firmer (waxy is good too). If you want to skip, though, for a lighter salad, feel free.

Small tomatoes are easier to work with, but you can use whatever you have, just try to use ones with a good flavor. And while softer-boiled eggs may be nice, medium-firm boiled eggs do tend to hold up better for this. 

Some people serve this as a composed salad, others mixed. Composed looks prettier, but it can mean some parts don't get the dressing on them properly which isn't quite as good for flavor.

Here I have separately dressed the greens then the beans, potatoes and tomatoes. This gives you a couple layers which gives a nice compromise of looking fairly pretty, but well-covered with dressing. I would warn that you don't want the potatoes to sit in the dressing too long as I think it can make them bitter. If you want to keep it a little longer, add them later.

Don't dress the eggs as tossing them can damage them - instead just arrange to the side. Also, use the tuna as a kind of garnish. 

Some traditionalists would argue you only need oil and a little salt and pepper to dress this, but others use wine vinegar as well. I have added a little Dijon to be more of a true French vinaigrette as the mustard helps it emulsify the other ingredients. Plus, it adds to the flavor.

Add other salad vegetables as you have and wish - here I added cucumber, but radish and green pepper are other popular choices. I've also seen favas and shaved fennel, both of which would be tasty and fit Niçoise flavors.

True, this salad takes a little more effort than simply chopping and tossing things together, but it's still easy to make. And the result is most definitely worth it.

Salade Niçoise may not be a salad everyone can agree on the ingredients list for, but I think it's much easier to agree it's summery and delicious. It has lots of color and flavor with variety too. It's hearty enough to make into a meal, but light enough to shout summer eating. Delicious in every bite.

Try these other meal salads

• Prosciutto salad with peach and mozzarella 
• Poached salmon salad
• Thai beef salad (nam tok/'waterfall beef')
• Plus get more French recipes in the archives.

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