Kaiserschmarrn (Austrian torn pancakes)

Kaiserschmarrn is a traditional torn-up pancake from Austria. Thick, fluffy, comforting chunks are dusted with sugar and served with fruit compote. A tasty treat, perfect for dessert, brunch or any meal you choose.

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Pancakes are a big favorite in our family. I don't usually have time to make them during the week, but they are regularly requested at the weekend.

While I grew up with British pancakes just for Shrove Tuesday, they're a regular for us on busier weekend days as I can prep them the night before and they cook quickly. When we have more time, an individual Dutch baby pancake or, chocolate Dutch baby pancake is high on the request list.

For something that is generally essentially just eggs, flour and milk, pancakes can be surprisingly versatile. And this Austrian dish that's arguably only borderline pancake is another delicious example.

Origins of Kaiserschmarrn

Kaiserschmarrn is from Austria and gets it's name after Emperor Franz Joseph I who was the ruler of the Austro-Hungarian/Habsburg empire from 1848 - 1916. He remains well-liked in the memory of the region. "Schmarrn" means mess or rubbish, and refers to the messy appearance of the dish, but also gives a hint at the origins.

You'll find a stories about how the dish was created, with some saying it was a happy accident in failing to make pancakes. Another story is that it was based on a dish the Emperor had at a hunting lodge that he asked his chefs to create a fancier, more refined version of.

This latter story has some basis in the fact that "Schmarrn" was already a peasant dish that was often a way to use up odds and ends in a skillet/frying pan - a bit like a hash, though sometimes with a simple batter added. You get versions using old bread rolls or potato, for example. Using eggs and sugar made it richer, and so fit for a king.

An Austrian favorite

Whatever the origins, it has become a firm favorite in the region and is a dish I remember having as a child. My parents kind of adopted Austria as their regular vacation/holiday spot for a while, so for many years, we'd spend a few weeks in a few areas, hiking and enjoying the scenery and of course food.

As a child, I loved both the better weather to hike in, and the fact you could get some tasty food in the mountain huts. It was a big step up from taking your own sandwich, that inevitably got squashed or you had to huddle to avoid the wind as you ate it that tended to be the norm in Scotland. I loved the Austrian options like goulash soup and sausages, and was occasionally allowed Kaiserschmarrn for lunch as well.

Enjoying something sweet as your main meal is actually a bit of an Austrian thing, dating back to when meat was expensive. Dishes with a little sugar and/or fruit, like this and Germknödel (filled sweet dumpling) were a way to fill up without the cost of meat, but it was still satisfying (and felt like a treat).

What makes Kaiserschmarrn different from 'regular' pancakes?

As I mentioned, these use essentially the same ingredients as most pancakes - eggs, flour, milk and sugar. Many, as I do, then add vanilla and lemon zest for flavor, and some mix in rum-soaked raisins as well. But it's the technique in how you make this that really defines the dish, and makes it that bit special.

The first thing that distinguishes Kaiserschmarrn is that the batter is very light and fluffy. That's because you separate the eggs and beat the whites until relatively stiff to get plenty air into them. You then fold the whites in with the yolk-based batter, trying to preserve as much of the lightness as you can. It's essentially a souffle pancake, in other words.

The other key thing about this dish is the way the mixture is broken up into bite-sized pieces at the end of cooking. This both makes the chunks easy to eat, but allows the edges to get gently caramelized with the sugar.

Tips for making Kaiserschmarrn

While the ingredients are simple, and it's not really difficult, you do have a couple more steps with this dish compared to a simpler pancake. But believe me it's worth it, and is easy once you keep a few things in mind.

• Mix the yolks, flour, milk and flavorings first, and set aside. You can actually make this part ahead of time and store in the fridge overnight.
• Use a really clean bowl to beat the egg whites and don't use plastic - it can often hold a greasy residue. Instead use a glass or ceramic bowl.
• Beat the egg whites on a medium-low speed and increase a little, as needed, but I recommend still not high. This helps build more stable air bubbles.
• Carefully fold the egg whites into the main batter.
• Cook over medium heat and reduce if needed to help the pancake gently brown but also cook through.
• Take care as you flip the pancake over, but also don't worry if it's a little messy - remember you are breaking it up in just a minute.

Some people use an oven method to avoid flipping the pancake, since that can be the trickier part in making the dish. It's not quite as traditional as all stovetop and personally, I don't find it necessary. To me, I'd rather accept it may not be perfect and save turning the oven on for just a few minutes.

What to serve with these pancake pieces

One of the most common sides for this is a plum compote, but really any fruit compote would work. I really like berry compotes, both for color as well as a burst of sweet-tart flavor.

Another option is to have this with apple sauce which also has a nice comfort factor to it. Some versions add rum-soaked raisins right into the batter, as I mentioned, in which case you might simply add plenty of sugar on top and/or some whipped cream.

I always remember Kaiserschmarrn served with a Preiselbeern (lingonberry) sauce but they are not exactly common here. Instead, I often use a mixed berry compote, like cranberry and raspberry or cherry-raspberry, to have a mix of sweet and tart.

Homemade compote is pretty quick and easy to make - it's typically just fruit, a little sugar and maybe some orange or lemon juice for liquid and a little acidity. You may add cornstarch to help thicken, if needed. But you can also buy compotes, they just tend to be sweeter.

This one to two-person serving fits perfectly in a small skillet/frying pan but you can easily scale up for more people and a larger pan. Though there's something pretty special about eating it straight out of the pan - and that's a common way to serve it.

Kaiserschmarrn's gently sweet, fluffy mouthfuls feel so comforting and that bit special, it's really worth finding whatever excuse you can to enjoy them. Brunch, dessert, or main meal, it's well worth enjoying soon.

Try these other Austrian/ German comfort foods:

• Bacon onion spaetzle (tasty little noodles but you can sub other pasta)
• German pancake soup (Flädlesuppe, a simple broth with pancakes in it)
• Sauerbraten (German pot roast with a spiced wine sauce)
• Dampfnudel (sweet steamed dumplings)
• Rote Grütze (a red berry pudding/compote)
• Plus get more German recipes in the archives.

Tools for this recipe

I'd recommend a small skillet, such as a Lodge 8in Cast Iron Skillet for this recipe.

See some of my favorite cooking tools and ingredients in the Caroline's Cooking Amazon store. 

Remember to pin for later!

This post was first shared in Feb 2015, and has since been updated, primarily with new photos. When I first made it we had huge piles of snow so I thought I'd take a photo of it on our snow-mountain outside to remind me of the mountain settings I first had this in! Leaving it below as a little reminder 🙂